In Search of the Mythic and Magical in Devon & Cornwall
Updated: Aug 25
Last week I visited the west country, during a spell of unusually prolonged warm and sunny weather for the British Isles during spring. This journey was not planned as a guide, but as an encounter with the mythic and magical in Devon and Cornwall, following a sense of place rather than a fixed route.
Entering the Landscape - The Power Of Dartmoor
The granite Tors of Dartmoor. I found these places profoundly strange and powerful, with the unusual forms of rock that occupy the peaks and have prominence over the landscape for many surrounding miles. Shaped by millennia of glacial activity and weathering, some of them appear impossibly stacked.
Dartmoor is three hundred sixty-five square miles of wilderness in the far southwest of Great Britain, the last county before you get to Cornwall. It's rugged, with vast granite tors, mires, seemingly endless stone circles and tribal remnants, sudden mists, and small ponies that are mad for roaming. Our waters are usually flowing, not still, rivers heading green and silver to the ocean. — Martin Shaw, Scatterlings,
Hopefully these photos convey something of the special atmosphere of this place. The Dartmoor of my mind is one shrouded in mists and ever changing mood, so what I found during this visit allowed me to see the place quite literally in a new light. The clear weather and vast views invited endless roaming into the distance, but that will be for my next visit. At the end of the walk I reflected on the necessity for coming into relation with a place, as part of my own approach to art making. You can read about this in Landscape: Relation and Reverence.
Warren House Inn
High towards the east of the moor lies the Warren House Inn, a wonderful alehouse with a fascinating history. My visit coincided with Beltane, seasonal celebration of the fertile powers in earth and all life, the 'bringing of fire', the onset of summer. The significance is that this pub nurtures a fire which has been burning continuously since 1845! It is the highest, and most lonely pub in southern England due to its isolated location.
Encountering the mythic - Peter Tavy Church, Renaissance carvings
This church is tucked away in a village at the western flank of the moor. I wasn't sure what I would find here, but something about the building glimpsed from several miles away, through trees and between hills during the course of my walk proved inviting. These magnificent and striking carvings were quite a find. For further information and photos concerning the carving and other features of the church I suggest visiting this website.
Cornwall - Boscastle & Tintagel
Many will know the name of Boscastle for the intense flooding that occurred in 2004, leading to the largest peacetime rescue operation in Britain. Footage of the event is quite something to behold. At one point a helicopter crew member can be heard requesting further assistance, stating "we are in danger of losing Boscastle, and everyone in it," although remarkably all were accounted for afterwards.
Since 1960 the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic has dwelt within the steep sided valley. It was great to finally visit, having looked forward to seeing the collection for many years.
The museum houses many artifacts of intrigue and fascination, documenting the diversity of belief, knowledge, tradition and innovation which resides not only in this region, but throughout the hidden lore of these Isles.
As the museum politely requests that photos taken are only for personal use, I'll limit my sharing to this striking work by Steffi Grant, which greets visitors at the start of the exhibits. For more on the mythic and magical in Devon and Cornwall, I recommend Troy Books.
Cornwall has provided inspiration for many artists and seekers of connection to traditions of an occult nature, Celtic heritage, and the powers of the land. One such person whose love for the far west gave expression to a fascinating array of writing and art was Ithell Colquhoun. Although she lived on the opposite coast, my brief travels did provide some sense of the unique qualities which she must have appreciated in the light, spaciousness, and more hidden aspects.
A few miles along the cornish coast lies Tintagel, legendary birthplace of King Arthur. The siting of the fortress ruins is dramatic, and although I didn't set foot on the specific outcrop of rock, the location conjured a similar sense of the impossible, fantastical, and otherworldly potency as did the tors of Dartmoor.
St.Materiana's Church lies just along the clifftop, and on a day like this offered a profound sense of both serenity and remoteness, a threshold space betwixt village and vastness of the Atlantic.
Brent Tor - A landscape of imagination and presence
During my first walk up onto the hill from where I was staying, this distinctive hill with church atop announced itself as a site of significance, and such was its prominence in the landscape that it seemed to be the nexus of my time in this part of the world.
I found out that Brent Tor is on (or very close to) the same Michael ley line as Glastonbury Tor, and the manner in which the tor's presence exerts itself for miles around is very reminiscent of the Isle of Avalon. The church of St.Michael de Rupe dates back to the 12th century. It is said that the villagers had started to build their church at the foot of the hill, however each night the Devil moved the foundation stones to the top.
In the above photo you can just about make out a distinctive hill the center of the horizon (try zooming in).
To reach the hill was a long walk from just outside Tavistock where I stayed, but worth it for the incredible panoramic views, and peaceful power of the place. In such an exposed setting, even on a still and calm day the slightest breath of breeze sent a rustle and shudder through the ancient building. I imagine it is quite an elemental experience to be present for a service during any more inclement weather.
Further reading on the mythic and magical in Devon
At this time last year I visited Dartmoor for the first time. You can read that earlier reflection on Dartmoor and Martin Shaw's Scatterlings in this Numinous Landscape newsletter.
