In Search of the Mythic and Magical in Devon & Cornwall

aphillipsarts
May 11
5 min read

Updated: Nov 10

Last week I visited the west country, during a spell of unusually prolonged warm and sunny weather for the British Isles during spring. Here are some of the places that drew my attention.

The Power Of Dartmoor

Rocky terrain with green grass under a clear blue sky. A contrail arcs from the top of a rock formation, suggesting a peaceful mood.

The granite Tors of Dartmoor. I found these places profoundly strange and powerful, with the unusual forms of rock that occupy the peaks and have prominence over the land for many surrounding miles. Shaped by millenia of glacial activity and weathering, some of them appear impossibly stacked.

Dartmoor is three hundred sixty-five square miles of wilderness in the far southwest of Great Britain, the last county before you get to Cornwall. It's rugged, with vast granite tors, mires, seemingly endless stone circles and tribal remnants, sudden mists, and small ponies that are mad for roaming. Our waters are usually flowing, not still, rivers heading green and silver to the ocean. — Martin Shaw, Scatterlings, p. 43

Stacked stone formations on a grassy hill under a clear blue sky. Sunlit rocks create a tranquil, rugged landscape. — The granite Tors of Dartmoor

Rock formations on a grassy hill under a clear blue sky with a few clouds. Sunlight casts soft shadows, creating a serene atmosphere.

Rock formation on a grassy hill under a clear blue sky. Rolling landscape stretches in the background. Peaceful and natural setting.

Stacked rock formations on a grassy landscape under a clear blue sky. A small puddle reflects the bright sunlight, creating a serene mood.

Hopefully these photos convey something of the special atmosphere of this place. The Dartmoor of my mind is one shrouded in mists and ever changing mood, so what I found during this visit allowed me to see the place quite literally in a new light. The clear weather and vast views invited endless roaming into the distance, but that will be for my next visit.

Rocky landscape with rolling green hills under a clear blue sky. Sparse clouds and a distant hill create a serene, open atmosphere.

Warren House Inn

High towards the east of the moor lies the Warren House Inn. A wonderful alehouse with a fascinating history. My visit coincided with Beltane, seasonal celebration of the fertile powers in earth and all life, the 'bringing of fire', the onset of summer. The significance is that this pub nurtures a fire which has been burning continuously since 1845! It is the highest, and most lonely pub in southern England due to its isolated location.

Stone fireplace with lit fire, flanked by chalkboards listing specials. Rustic décor, warm ambiance with lantern and wooden bunny cutouts. — The fire at the Warren House Inn, Dartmoor

Cozy room with wood paneling, piano, and a stool by a bright window with red curtains. Framed pictures on wall; glass on wooden table.

Green hillside with a small white house in the distance under a blue sky. Sheep graze on the lush grass, creating a peaceful rural scene. — The Warren House Inn, seen from a distance.

Peter Tavy Church - Renaissance Carvings

This church is tucked away in a village at the western flank of the moor. I wasn't sure what I would find here, but something about the building glimpsed from several miles away, through trees and between hills during the course of my walk proved inviting. These magnificent and striking carvings were quite a find. For further information and photos concerning the carving and other features of the church I suggest visiting this website.

Historic stone church with tall tower in sunny graveyard. Green grass, scattered tombstones, and blue sky with scattered clouds. Peaceful mood.

Stone-walled chapel room with large stained glass window, wooden chairs, a floral bouquet, and a table with a cross, creating a serene atmosphere.

Intricately carved wooden panel featuring mythical faces and swirling patterns. The wood is aged with a rustic, detailed design.

Ornate wooden panel with intricate carvings of faces and floral patterns. Rustic stone wall above, aged and textured appearance. — Renaissance carvings at St.Peter's Church, Peter Tavy, Devon

Carved wooden panel with two mythical creatures facing each other, tongues entwined. Intricate floral patterns adorn the background.

Boscastle & Tintagel

Many will know the name of Boscastle for the intense flooding that occurred in 2004, leading to the largest peacetime rescue operation in Britain. Footage of the event is quite something to behold. At one point a helicopter crew member can be heard requesting further assistance, stating "we are in danger of losing Boscastle, and everyone in it," although remarkably all were accounted for afterwards.

Since 1960 the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic has dwelt within the steep sided valley. It was great to finally visit, having looked forward to seeing the collection for many years.

Museum of Witchcraft with white walls, signs, and orange cones outside. Sunny day with blue sky. Woman in white sits by stone wall. — Museum of Witchcraft and Magic, Boscastle

Colorful painting of a face with intricate patterns on yellow background in a frame. Dark setting with white walls displaying text and diagrams.

The museum houses many artifacts of intrigue and fascination, documenting the diversity of belief, knowledge, tradition and innovation which resides not only in this region, but throughout the hidden lore of these Isles. As the museum politely requests that photos taken are only for personal use, I'll limit my sharing to this striking work by Steffi Grant, which greets visitors at the start of the exhibits. For more on the mythic and magical in Devon and Cornwall, I recommend Troy publishing.

A clear sky with wispy clouds over a stone creek. People walk on pathways beside stone buildings. Hills and greenery line the background. — Boscastle

Coastal scene with rocky cliffs framing a calm sea under a clear sky. Green grass tops the cliffs, creating a tranquil, natural setting. — The harbour entrance at Boscastle

Ornate wooden chair with intricate carvings and lion armrests, set against a rustic wall with framed photos and pottery in a cozy ambiance. — The Cobweb Inn, Boscastle

A few miles along the cornish coast lies Tintagel, legendary birthplace of King Arthur. The siting of the fortress ruins is dramatic, and although I didn't set foot on the specific outcrop of rock, the location conjured a similar sense of the impossible, fantastical, and otherworldly potency as did the tors of Dartmoor.

Rocky coastal cliff with green grass overlooks the ocean under a blue sky with wispy clouds. Waves crash against the rocks below. — Tintagel

Stone church with a cross monument in a graveyard, under a clear blue sky. Path and gate in the foreground, surrounded by green grass.

St.Materiana's Church lies just along the clifftop, and on a day like this offered a profound sense of both serenity and remoteness, a threshold space betwixt village and vastness of the Atlantic.

Small chapel interior with a stained glass window, a wooden cross, a religious painting on a white wall, and a dark wooden dresser. — Inside St.Materiana's Church, Tintagel

Grassy cemetery with numerous stone headstones, a dirt path winding through. Green hills and blue sky create a peaceful atmosphere.

Brent Tor

During my first walk up onto the hill from where I was staying, this distinctive hill with church atop announced itself as a site of significance, and such was its prominence in the landscape that it seemed to be the nexus of my time in this part of the world. I found out that that Brent Tor is on (or very close to) the same Michael ley line as Glastonbury Tor, and the manner in which the tor's presence exerts itself for miles around is very reminiscent of the Isle of Avalon. The church of St.Michael de Rupe dates back to the 12th century. It is said that the villagers had started to build their church at the foot of the hill, however each night the Devil moved the foundation stones to the top.

Scenic countryside with green fields, hedges, and scattered trees under a blue sky with clouds. Peaceful, rural landscape. — Brent Tor on the horizon, seen from near Tavistock

In the above photo you can just about make out a distinctive hill the center of the horizon (try zooming in).

Rolling green hills with yellow gorse bushes under a clear blue sky. Peaceful, expansive landscape with a distant hilltop.

Green field with a hill topped by a stone tower. Sparse trees and rocky outcrops surround under a clear blue sky. Peaceful and scenic.

Old stone castle on a grassy hill under a bright blue sky. Sunlight casts shadows, creating a serene and historic atmosphere. — St Michael de Rupe, Brent Tor, Devon

Stone wall and gravestones beside a tree on a grassy hill. Rolling hills and clear blue sky in the background create a serene landscape.

Stone tower on a grassy hilltop, with a stone path leading to it. Blue sky and expansive countryside view create a serene atmosphere. — Looking west

A church interior with wooden pews and hymn books. Sunlit altar at front, stained glass window, hymn numbers on wall, peaceful ambiance. — Inside St Michael de Rupe, Brent Tor

To reach the hill was a long walk from just outside Tavistock where I stayed, but worth it for the incredible panoramic views, and peaceful power of the place. In such an exposed setting, even on a still and calm day the slightest breath of breeze sent a rustle and shudder through the ancient building. I imagine it is quite an elemental experience to be present for a service during any more inclement weather.

Looking east, back whence I came. In the distance some Dartmoor Tors that featured in photos above

Stone building atop a grassy hill under a clear blue sky, with a lone tree beside it. Peaceful and open landscape.

Further reading on the mythic and magical in Devon and Cornwall.

At this time last year I made my first foray to Devon since childhood, visiting Dartmoor for the first time. You can read about that, with particular reference to an excellent book—Scatterlings, by Martin Shaw— on the mysteries of the Devonian landscape and its mythology (and much more besides) — in this newsletter.

A YouTube channel which explores Dartmoor in a fairly gentle and insightful manner is The Dartmoor Podcast.

A tranquil Dartmoor landscape with stones on grassy plains under a bright blue sky with clouds. Text: Numinous Landscape, The Power of Dartmoor.

Andrew Phillips is a Visual Artist, Psychotherapist, and Soul-oriented Creative Mentor in south Wales.

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